Prisons are frightening, intimidating facilities. Built to separate criminals from the rest of society, they are literally fortresses, albeit ones designed to keep people in rather than keep them out. In countries with histories of colonial rule and military dictatorship, prisons have also been hated symbols of oppression.

Nevertheless, old prisons are also important pieces of the nation’s history. For example, a list of Seodaemun Prison’s former inmates reads like a who’s who of the Korean independence and democratization movements. As monuments to darker history, old prisons can also serve as potent reminders and warnings to future generations.

In this issue of KOREA, we visit two former prisons: Seodaemun Prison in Seoul, which is now a popular historical park, and Jangheung Prison in western Korea, which is now a top filming locale. We also talk with one of Korea’s leading young violinists, chat with a genre-crossing traditional music group, and even discover one of Korea’s most beloved snacks, tteokbokki.